Travel guide
How to ride the shinkansen: tickets, seats and big luggage
The shinkansen is the fastest and calmest way to cross Japan: Tokyo to Osaka in under two and a half hours, from city centre to city centre. It is also very easy once you know how it works. This guide explains the train types, how to buy a ticket online or at a machine, reserved and non-reserved cars, the rules for big suitcases that catch many visitors out, what to eat on board, and which seat gives you the view of Mount Fuji.
In short
- On the Tokaido line, Nozomi is fastest, Hikari stops a little more, Kodama stops everywhere.
- A suitcase over 160 cm (length + width + height) needs a seat with an oversized baggage area, booked in advance; it costs nothing extra.
- Going from Tokyo towards Osaka, book seat E (Standard) or seat D (Green) for Mount Fuji.
- Stack both tickets together and feed them into the gate at once.
- Buy food before you board: there is no food trolley in Standard Class on the Tokaido line.
In this guide
The shinkansen in a nutshell
Japan's high-speed rail network fans out from Tokyo: the Tokaido line runs west to Kyoto and Osaka, continuing as the Sanyo line to Hiroshima and Fukuoka; the Tohoku line runs north through Tohoku to Shin-Aomori (JNTO (opens in a new tab)), with branches to Hokkaido, Niigata and Kanazawa. Nozomi trains reach Shin-Osaka from Tokyo Station in 2 hours 21 minutes (JR Central (opens in a new tab)).
| Train (Tokaido line) | Stops | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Nozomi | Fewest, fastest | JR Pass needs a special ticket |
| Hikari | A few more | Covered by the JR Pass |
| Kodama | Every station | Slowest, often quieter |
Nozomi trains leave every few minutes at busy times, so you rarely wait long (JR Central (opens in a new tab)). If you travel on a JR Pass, Hikari is covered and Nozomi needs a special ticket (Japan Rail Pass (opens in a new tab)).
Buying a ticket
A shinkansen journey uses two tickets: a basic fare ticket and a super express ticket. You can buy them in three ways:
- Online with Smart EX for the Tokaido, Sanyo and Kyushu lines. The app is available in the US, Canada, Australia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia and Thailand; from Europe, use the Smart EX website in your browser (JR Central (opens in a new tab)). You can link the ticket to your IC card and tap through the gate.
- At a ticket machine in the station, with menus in English. Handy if your card does not work online.
- At a staffed ticket office, useful for complicated trips, passes or oversized luggage.
At the gate, stack both paper tickets together and insert them at the same time, and do the same when you exit (JR Central (opens in a new tab)).
Stack both tickets together and insert them into the slot at the same time.
Reserved, non-reserved or Green Car?
Most trains have both reserved and non-reserved cars, though some services are reserved-only. Green Cars are first class with more space, and on the Tohoku, Hokkaido, Hokuriku and Joetsu lines there is an even more luxurious GranClass (JNTO (opens in a new tab)).
| Tokaido train | Non-reserved cars |
|---|---|
| Nozomi | 1–2 |
| Hikari | 1–5 |
| Kodama | 1–6 and 13–16 |
Car numbers are from JR Central and can change (JR Central (opens in a new tab)). Non-reserved seats are fine outside rush hour, but on Friday evenings, weekends and Japanese holidays, book a seat.
Big suitcases: the 160 cm rule
This is the rule that catches most visitors. On the Tokaido, Sanyo, Kyushu and Nishi Kyushu lines, a bag whose length, width and height add up to more than 160 cm (and up to 250 cm) needs a reservation for a seat with an oversized baggage area. The reservation costs nothing beyond the normal reserved-seat fare; turn up without one and you pay ¥1,000 and store the bag where the crew tells you. Bags over 250 cm are not allowed at all (JR West (opens in a new tab)).
On board: food, etiquette and the view
Eating and drinking are allowed, and an ekiben (station bento) is part of the experience (JNTO (opens in a new tab)). On the Tokaido line there are no food sales in Standard Class, so buy before boarding; every seat has a fold-down table (JR Central (opens in a new tab)). Keep phone calls for the deck between cars, and turn your seat back round if you rotated it for a group.
For Mount Fuji, travelling from Tokyo towards Osaka, choose seat E in Standard Class or seat D in Green Class (JR Central (opens in a new tab)). The mountain appears on the right around Shizuoka, weather permitting.
Read next
Working out if a rail pass saves money? Read JR Pass: is it worth it?. For the trains and subways inside cities, you will want an IC card. Heading on to Chugoku? Hiroshima is on the Sanyo line, just beyond Osaka.
Questions travellers ask
What is the difference between Nozomi, Hikari and Kodama?
On the Tokaido line, Nozomi makes the fewest stops and is fastest, Hikari stops a little more, and Kodama stops at every station.
Do I need to reserve a seat on the shinkansen?
Not always: most trains have non-reserved cars. Reserve at busy times, and always if your bag is over 160 cm on the Tokaido, Sanyo and Kyushu lines.
Can I bring a large suitcase on the shinkansen?
Yes, up to 250 cm in total dimensions. Over 160 cm you must book a seat with an oversized baggage area (free); without one you pay ¥1,000.
Which side of the shinkansen has the Mount Fuji view?
From Tokyo towards Osaka, the right: seat E in Standard Class or seat D in Green Class.
Can I eat on the shinkansen?
Yes. Eating and drinking are allowed. Buy food before boarding, as Standard Class on the Tokaido line has no food sales.
Sources
We checked the facts on this page against these sources.
- Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO)日本政府観光局Shinkansen basics for visitors (opens in a new tab)
- JR CentralJR東海Tokaido Shinkansen guide for visitors (opens in a new tab)
- JR WestJR西日本Oversized luggage on the shinkansen (opens in a new tab)
- Japan Rail Pass official siteSpecial tickets for Nozomi and Mizuho (opens in a new tab)
Explore related pages
Read next
Japan Rail Pass: prices, rules and when it pays off
The Japan Rail Pass gives you unlimited JR trains, including most shinkansen, for 7, 14 or 21 days. It is great value for a big loop around Japan and poor value for a city break. Here are the 2026 prices, exactly what the pass covers, the rules that catch people out, and a simple way to decide whether it is worth it for your route.23 Oct 2026
IC cards in Japan: Suica, PASMO and ICOCA for visitors
An IC card is the easiest way to ride trains and buses in Japan: tap in, tap out, and the fare comes off your balance. If you use an Oyster card or tap a contactless bank card in London, or OMNY in New York, you already know the idea. This guide explains which card to get, what the visitor-only Welcome Suica can and cannot do, where your card works and where it does not, and how to top up without fuss.23 Oct 2026
Arrival day in Japan: immigration, then airport to city
The first two hours in Japan set the tone for the trip. This guide walks you through landing, immigration and customs, what to sort out before you leave the airport (yen, data, an IC card, your rail pass), and the best way into the city from Narita, Haneda and Kansai Airport, with times from the official airport guides. It also covers sending your suitcase ahead and what to do if you land late at night.23 Oct 2026
