Japan Heritage story
Kunisaki: where the ogres became buddhas
鬼が仏になった里「くにさき」
On the Kunisaki peninsula in Oita, ogres are not scary. Monks who admired their power turned them into buddhas, and at the Shujo Onie festival the ogres swing torches to drive away misfortune, then drink with the villagers like old friends.
Key facts
- Theme
- Castles, Forests and timber, Festivals and rituals
- Era
- Heian
- Region
- Kyushu & Okinawa
- Official name in Japanese
- 鬼が仏になった里「くにさき」
- Official area (in Japanese)
- 大分県（豊後高田市, 国東市）
The story
To people sailing the Seto Inland Sea, the round Kunisaki peninsula was the edge of the known world: rock peaks wrapped in mist, with caves high up where no person could climb. Ogres with great powers were said to live there. Monks who admired that power climbed the peaks, carved the caves into iwaya training places and began the pilgrimage between them. In time up to 65 temples, known as Rokugo Manzan, spread over the peninsula's six districts.
In the Heian period the ogres merged with Fudo Myoo, a Buddhist guardian: the ogre's sword matches Fudo's, and the ogre's torch flame echoes the flames behind Fudo. Unusually, many Fudo statues here have round, gentle faces. At the Shujo Onie festival, monks dressed as ogres rush through temple halls with torches. Being showered with sparks or tapped with a torch is said to bring good harvests and health, and at Iwatoji and Jobutsuji the ogres then visit homes to drink with the villagers.
What to see
- Kumano Magaibutsu: Buddhist figures carved into a cliff, including a gentle-faced Fudo.Google Maps 熊野磨崖仏 (opens in a new tab)
- Makino Odo: a hall of soft-featured Heian-period wooden statues, including Fudo Myoo.Google Maps 真木大堂 (opens in a new tab)
- Iwatoji and Jobutsuji: the temples where ogres leave the hall at Shujo Onie to visit the village.Google Maps 岩戸寺 国東市 (opens in a new tab)
- Choanji: home of Taro-ten, a child-like god that is secretly a form of Fudo.Google Maps 長安寺 豊後高田市 (opens in a new tab)
- Tashibunosho: the peaceful rice-field landscape of Kunisaki's villages.Google Maps 田染荘 (opens in a new tab)
Plan your trip with the Oita prefecture guide and see more temples and shrines.
Good to know
- Shujo Onie is a New Year rite; check dates with each temple before you go.
- Look closely at the ogre masks: some seem to smile, boast or even cry.
- The temples sit in steep rock country, so wear good shoes.
Questions travellers ask
What is Shujo Onie?
Kunisaki's biggest temple festival, where monks dressed as ogres rush around with torches to drive out misfortune and bring blessings.
What is Rokugo Manzan?
The Buddhist world of the Kunisaki peninsula, with up to 65 temples spread over its six districts.
Where it comes from
More heritage stories from the same area
Local foods from the same area
Crafts from the same area
Sources
We checked the facts on this page against these sources.